Outdoors in New York 
It's the dog days of February. There's a couple of
inches of snow on the ground - old snow, so it's dirty and slushy rather
than crisp and fresh - and the wind chill is just a few degrees above
zero. So inevitably, I started thinking wistfully of summer, of
parades, street fairs, and other outdoor events.
One of the best-known, of course, is one of the first
- Saint Patrick's Day. I usually avoid it, because crowds of
somewhat inebriated people are not my favorite thing. But last
year I went to two Saint Paddy's parades - one was the big one in
Manhattan on March 17, and the other was the local one in the Irish
neighborhood of Sunnyside and Woodside, which takes place a couple of
weeks earlier. They couldn't be more different! The big one
has thousands of people watching, many dressed in costume (see photos at
right). The local one was created in part when Irish gays and lesbians
were not allowed to march under their own banner in the "big" parade,
and features local Irish organizations, groups of young drummers and
dancers, and the McCourt brothers (author Frank McCourt and his three
brothers, Malachy, Frank and Alphie).
St. Patrick's day is just the first of many parades in
New York, from the traditional (July 4) to the outrageous (the
Mermaid Parade in
Coney Island).
Then there are the street fairs. While a lot of
people feel they have become interchangeable, because the effort and
paperwork it takes to be a vendor makes it more worthwhile for the big
organizations that appear at every fair, we use them as an excuse to go
to a neighborhood we may never have explored before. That's how we
got to Brighton Beach (the Russian enclave - with Russian cafes on the
boardwalk, and incredibly cheap restaurants on the avenues, all
featuring authentic Russian food, including pelmeni, an addiction of
mine. We've been to Bay Ridge, where we discovered the best street
music of any street fair, and to Woodside, which has the best Irish bars
and restaurants. And the big fair in Greenwich Village is a lot of
fun, too, with great music and food.
Sometimes the best street fairs are the little ones on
the side streets, but they are the hardest to find, because they don't
require avenue closings and re-routing of buses, etc., so they don't
appear on the city's lists. We always try to make it to "Perryphernalia"
- a kind of super-garage-sale on Perry Street in Greenwich Village.
(If Perry Street looks familiar, it's because it's where Carrie Bradshaw
"lived" on "Sex and the City.") The other ones we like are a
couple of neighborhood ones on the upper east side, run by churches.
One, run by the Church of the
Holy Trinity, features the
French Cookin' Blues Band,
and draws a crowd of dancing, finger-snapping locals. The other is
run by the St. Stephen's
of Hungary church, and features great home-cooked Hungarian food.
Not all the fairs are on the street, though.
Last year we made it to the Medieval Festival in Fort Tryon Park at the
north end of Manhattan. (That's where the Cloisters, the museum of
medieval art is - I love that place!) Lots of people dress in full
costume, and come to watch the jousting, falconry, and to buy new
costumes for next year's fair. (A tip from the organizers - if you
want to wear a costume, keep in mind that the grand costumes of kings
and princesses, with layers of velvet, are swelteringly hot if the
weather's warm. Peasant costumes are much more comfortable!)
See photos of last year's fair at right.
Well, it's still February, there are still inches of
dirty snow outside, but I feel better now I've reminisced about last
summer. Spring will be here before I know it!
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